"This is not a recommended activity for vegetarians or people currently or pre-emptively weak of stomach", stated the email inviting us to go and try out 'Ramzan' on Mohammed Ali Road. Well I am certainly not a vegetarian but I can definitely be weak of stomach so it was with some trepidation that last night, I decided to join a group of work colleagues intent on eating kebabs, sweets, dried fruit, mutton brain, and bone marrow soup (YUM).
Ramzan or Ramadan as it is more commonly known is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and is observed the world over by Muslims as a month of fasting. The month lasts 29–30 days based on the "visual sightings of the crescent moon". The word Ramadan comes from the Arabic root ramida or ar-ramad, which means scorching heat or dryness.
Fasting is endured from dawn until sunset and Muslims must refrain from consuming food and drinking liquids (even water!). According to Islam, there are rewards to be had from fasting anyway, but in this month they are believed to be multiplied. And from what I could tell, this means everyone coming out at night to stuff themselves!
During the month of Ramzan, Mohammed Ali Road (a rather depressing stretch of road in South Mumbai but actually near Chor Bazaar where we buy antiques) becomes a floodlit kilometre long buffet where stalls and shops sell street food well into the early hours. It is buzzing, extremely crowded (although not too bad at 9pm when we arrived), dirty and I would say, gastromically risky. I certainly would not go there to try the foods unless you are with someone who seriously knows what they are doing (thankfully I was). If you want to check it out and don't have a guide, I would recommend only frequenting the establishments on the map downloadable here:
http://mumbaiboss.com/2011/08/10/mb-maps-mohammed-ali-road-2/
And don't judge a book by its cover...some of these places may look like Hepatitis Central but I had one of the most delicious flatbreads I have ever tasted and some other 'interesting' dishes. Here are the photos:
When we got out of our taxi we saw a commotion in a side street so went to investigate. Turns out that an important Muslim religious leader was visiting this mosque and they are waiting for him to come out. What you can just glimpse in between the crowd of men in the foreground, is a seriously flashy mercedes waiting to take him away!
Here he is...apparently the equivalent of the Pope but I am not sure. He's the old fella with the beard and pointy hat just to the left of the pole.
On the way home, I was advised to buy some pro-biotics as a precaution against stomach bugs. I took two last night and two this morning and whether this helped or not I don't know - but I am pleased to report that so far I have not had any repercussions!
Postscript: Ramadan is expected to end on Sunday 19th August (2012) so Mumbai readers, you've only got just over a week or so to get in on the experience.
Ramzan or Ramadan as it is more commonly known is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and is observed the world over by Muslims as a month of fasting. The month lasts 29–30 days based on the "visual sightings of the crescent moon". The word Ramadan comes from the Arabic root ramida or ar-ramad, which means scorching heat or dryness.
Fasting is endured from dawn until sunset and Muslims must refrain from consuming food and drinking liquids (even water!). According to Islam, there are rewards to be had from fasting anyway, but in this month they are believed to be multiplied. And from what I could tell, this means everyone coming out at night to stuff themselves!
During the month of Ramzan, Mohammed Ali Road (a rather depressing stretch of road in South Mumbai but actually near Chor Bazaar where we buy antiques) becomes a floodlit kilometre long buffet where stalls and shops sell street food well into the early hours. It is buzzing, extremely crowded (although not too bad at 9pm when we arrived), dirty and I would say, gastromically risky. I certainly would not go there to try the foods unless you are with someone who seriously knows what they are doing (thankfully I was). If you want to check it out and don't have a guide, I would recommend only frequenting the establishments on the map downloadable here:
http://mumbaiboss.com/2011/08/10/mb-maps-mohammed-ali-road-2/
And don't judge a book by its cover...some of these places may look like Hepatitis Central but I had one of the most delicious flatbreads I have ever tasted and some other 'interesting' dishes. Here are the photos:
When we got out of our taxi we saw a commotion in a side street so went to investigate. Turns out that an important Muslim religious leader was visiting this mosque and they are waiting for him to come out. What you can just glimpse in between the crowd of men in the foreground, is a seriously flashy mercedes waiting to take him away!
Here he is...apparently the equivalent of the Pope but I am not sure. He's the old fella with the beard and pointy hat just to the left of the pole.
A stall selling nuts and dried fruits. You commonly see this - shop keepers sitting on the table from which they are selling their wares |
A close up of the chicken roll. Note the paper plate which has been recycled from cardboard packaging - I love the ways in which things get re-used in India. |
En-route to the main course. It is hard to describe the sights, sounds, smells (most of which are pretty bad!) and frenetic-ness |
Approach to a sweet stall. |
Close up of the above sweet stall where they are making some sort of deep fried egg dish - a sort of pancake...and a heart-attack on a plate. |
On the way home, I was advised to buy some pro-biotics as a precaution against stomach bugs. I took two last night and two this morning and whether this helped or not I don't know - but I am pleased to report that so far I have not had any repercussions!
Postscript: Ramadan is expected to end on Sunday 19th August (2012) so Mumbai readers, you've only got just over a week or so to get in on the experience.
Nice post. Even Bangalore has few streets which get alive during the Ramadan month. This is from bangalore http://wanderingtastebuds.com/2012/08/17/ramzan-month-mm-road-beckons/
ReplyDeleteHey Priyanka thanks for looking! I love your post.....being a westerner, I lose all the food names and terminology, thus some important detail....you have great info on your entry!! All I can say is how great everything tastes ( or not!!)
DeleteVery interesting report! I like to hear about the Muslims' way of living in India. And you told these moments very well. I don't know if I would have dared to taste all this food but one often says that people are more likely to get a stomachache in an apparently clean restaurant for tourists. I don't know if it's true...
ReplyDeleteBye!