Friday, 14 September 2012

Textile Shopping Frenzy at Paramparik Karigar

It was my husband's birthday yesterday - so I decided to treat myself.  Ha ha.

My big shop came about after seeing a notification on beloved Mumbai Boss about 'Paramparik Karigar' - a textiles exhibition at Coomaraswamy Hall that was on this week.  I had been hunting high and low for some nice finishing touches for the sitting room and not wanting to pay the heavy prices at Good Earth, thought this might be a good place to fulfil my interior design ambitions.  The exhibition (well actually, sale) was held in two parts - the first being a sale of rugs, art, boxes and ceramics and the second part was purely textiles. Yes, I actually went back a second time.

Inside the Paramparik Karigar Exhibition
 
Fabulous, gorgeous brightly coloured sari fabric

You can even buy copper cow bells from Kutch.
I was not disappointed.  The exhibition was fabulous!  Rugs from Rajastan, silk paintings from Orissa, Madhubani folk drawings, boxes inlaid with silver, mother of pearl spoons...and then, kantha bedspreads and dupattas from Kutch, block printed fabrics from Jaipur and cutwork curtains and beautifully embroidered saris from all over India.  An absolute textile hoarder's paradise.  If I was handy with a sewing machine I would have bought so much more (Steph, you would have died and gone to heaven!).

Here are the pictures of the booty.  The living area in the apartment is really coming together now (except for that darned coffee table) ...so stay tuned for final pictures when I'm done.

Fabulous handstitched dupattas (stoles) from Kutch in North India.....all that embroidery is done by HAND!
A close up of that running stitch
This won't be to everyone's taste but I love this table!  The legs are made of ox horn
and the table top is inlaid with mother-of-pearl.


A cotton bedspread slung on the back of the sofa.  This was about £15 - 1,300 rupees

Gorgeous wooden bowls edged with mother-of-pearl (200 rs/£2.35 each, horn spoons 50 rs/60p each)

A new runner to divide the living from the dining area.  Nice muted colours.
This dhurrie - traditionally made with vegetable dyes - was 5,500 Rs/£65. Cheaper than Ikea.


I'm actually not so sure about this rug - the design is a bit gaudy.  
But it goes alright with our orange poufs (Pure Living)
Mother-of-pearl handled serving spoons atop a cutwork table cloth.  Table cloth was 1,600 Rs/£20.

Mr Jules is actually in Amsterdam on business at the moment, so the first he will know of these 'birthday presents' will be when he reads this blog! Thank you darling!! xx

Paramparik Karigar is an association of crafts people from all over India with the aim of keeping craft traditions alive.  They hold regular sales in Mumbai several times a year.  This exhibition ends on 15th September but they are due back on 12-16th December, so don't fret if you missed it this time around!  Details can be found here: http://www.paramparikkarigar.com/exhibitions.html

Venue:

Coomaraswamy Hall
Chhatrapatui Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sanghrahalaya,
M.G. Road, Mumbai- 400 001.

Thursday, 13 September 2012

My Brush with God at Bandra Fair

When a volunteering colleague -'Ze German' - offered to show me around Bandra Fair last night, I of course said yes please.  I was so keen because I assumed such a fair would be showcasing wonderful Indian handicrafts and delicious local foods.  I also had in mind that the air would be filled with the sounds of native music and the laughter of children - in fact I envisaged the atmosphere of a lovely German Christmas market, of which I have been to many (minus the snow of course).  I couldn't have been more wrong.

Bandra Fair is actually more properly known as Mount Mary Fair - which unbeknown to me is an eight day Christian 'pilgrimage' from the bottom of Mount Mary Road up to the top where Mount Mary Church is situated.  Apparently this annual festival is visited by up to a million people during the eight days from 8th September - which bearing in mind the narrow streets and the already over-burdened and badly managed traffic, makes it hell for people living in the vicinity of Bandra. And 'Pilgrimage' is probably overdoing it a bit - I would describe is more as a light 30 minute upward stroll.  Proper pilgrimages surely involve wearing cloth sacks and very little on your feet whilst traipsing across land and sea for months, maybe years, just to say 'hello' to a representation of Jesus or Mary?

Very disappointingly the sides of Mount Mary Road were not lined with beautiful stalls selling local  handicrafts or Indian foods but instead (and even worse for a non-religious person such as myself) contained stall after stall after stall selling nothing but candles.  But not even pretty candles of different colours and scents.... just a load of white ones, in bizarre shapes such as a horse, human leg or head!  I was trying to work out if you are supposed to buy all the body parts and then somehow fuse them together to 'make your own effigy'...? But nobody on the 'stroll' seemed to be purchasing anything so I couldn't tell. And as per usual, Ze German and I were constantly hassled by street kids all the way to the top trying to sell us small candles and marigold posies.

Mount Mary Fair - stall after stall of white candles - mostly body parts such as legs and heads.
In terms of the 'experience' all was not lost.  After marching German style to the top (good to have German friends, they keep you fit), I saw Mount Mary Church (otherwise known as 'Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount') for the first time.  It was impressive looking and beautifully lit up and actually looked very Christmassy.  In fact I didn't really feel like I was in India at all - I was almost transported to Hamburg! Directly opposite is the 'Oratory of Our Lady of Fatima' - a slightly novel looking monument - with 38 symmetrical steps leading up to a 6 foot statue of Fatima.  Again beautifully lit up with many people at the top praying and offering their wax candles to the statue. (aaaaaaah, that's what they're for!).

Gothic Style Mount Mary Church. Must go back when they take down the temporary monsoon roof.
We entered the church which was filled with thousands of visitors (sorry, 'pilgrims').  Everyone was staring up at the statue of Mary and praying whilst I clicked away on my camera.  I was impressed by the multicoloured light show they had going on in there....so Indian!

Everyone was mesmerised by Mary - whilst I was mesmerised by the spectacular light show on the roof of the Church


Inside Mount St Mary Church. Mass for the Masses.

Steps leading up to the top of the Oratory of Our Lady of Fatima



This reminds of something out of the 'Omen' movie...do you know what I mean?

errr... my name is Jules?
 
On the way back from our pilgrimage, I think Ze German and I had been spritually affected by what we saw.  For we took four street urchins under our wing and bought them fresh coconut drinks.  See how they smile!  Blessed are us!!!








Bandra fair is on until 16th September.  Be quick.  Be Godly.

More info here:
http://mountmarybasilicabandra.in/the_bandra_fair
http://wonderfulmumbai.com/bandra-mount-mary-fair-2012-location-activities-pictures/
 
 
Postscript.
My blog on Bandra fair was featured in DNA newspaper today 24th September 2012!!

 

Tuesday, 11 September 2012

A ruined visit to the Prince of Wales Museum

Having been ill with ear ache for the whole of the previous week, I suggested to Mr Jules that visiting a museum would be a nice, calming and cultured way to spend a Saturday afternoon.  So it was with this in mind that we set off in the car to visit the Prince of Wales Museum in South Mumbai.  Or Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya as it is more catchily known as these days.


The exterior of the building, surrounded by lush greenery - rare to find in Bombay
We just about got in OK, despite battling dozens of Indians at the entrance who evidently did not know what the word "queue" meant (why aren't we used to this by now?). Before longish, we were viewing the museum's showcase of archaeology, art and artefacts, decorative arts, stone sculptures, and its Chinese and Japanese collections.  How cultured, how relaxing! There is also an extensive Natural History section with all manner of stuffed animals native to India, including a fish and bird section:

Images from the Natural History section - once majestic animals

Of more interest to me was the collection of Decorative Art objects in jade, wood, ivory, metal and textiles, described as 'magnificent' by the museum curators.  I have to say, they weren't a patch on the displays at the Victoria & Albert Museum back home in London, but they weren't bad.  The selection of art originating from all parts of India was also interesting - some of it gaudy, some of it naive, some intricate, some very very beautiful. 

As is always the case, Mr Jules and I never seem to be able to go anywhere without some sort of drama. Today, it happened to be schoolkids.  Hundreds (maybe thousands!) of schoolkids. Schoolkids emerging out of every crevice of of the building, marching through every room, filling every stairwell, sitting on every seat.  Every corner we turned they were there.  And then some of the school girls started to bet each other that they could speak to us.  So then they started shouting 'NAMASTE!!!' (welcome) every time they saw us (which was every two minutes), stopping to put their hands together and then asking for me to photograph them.  The noise these schoolchildren were making was riotous, disturbing my nice peaceful day and hurting my already overwhelmed eardrum. We tried to dodge them by going in the opposite direction or going to another part of the museum but there were so many of them it was impossible.  In the end we just gave up and fled.  We will go back another day when it's quieter! (why aren't schoolkids at home on Saturdays?)

School children coming out of every crevice of the building


NAMASTE!!!!

Some more images from the museum (I had to pay an extra 200 rupees on top of the entry fee to use my camera)


A good collection of Blue and White Chinese pottery
Nice bit of Chinoiserie
Art at the Sir Ratan Tata Gallery (his statue in the foreground)
 
Some very decent western art in the Ratan Tata Gallery (didn't note the artist of this one)
 
 
This is a very important book - the Panchatantra. - an ancient Indian inter-related collection of animal fables in verse and prose. The original Sanskrit work, which some scholars believe was composed in the 3rd century BCE, is attributed to Vishnu Sharma. It is based on stories told from one generation to the next, including "animal fables that are as old as we are able to imagine". It is the most frequently translated book in India.
 
Attractive slightly Gothic interior of the museum - a Grade 1 listed building completed in the early 1900s

A statue of a Hindu Goddess
or.....Katie Price formerly known as Jordan?

 
A guard having five minutes to himself

The Prince of Wales Museum
(Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya)
159/61 Mahatma Gandhi Road,
Fort, Mumbai 400 023.
Telephone Nos.: 22844484 | 22844519

VISITING HOURS Tuesday to Sunday,10:15a.m.to 6:00 p.m. Monday closed
The Museum remains completely closed on following days:
January 26, May 1, August 15, October 2
ADMISSION (free for disabled visitors) fees
Type of Visitor Amount
Visitors above 12 years of age Rs. 40/-
College Students bearing their college identity cardRs. 20/-
Child Visitors (between 5 and 12 years) and Students coming through schoolsRs. 05/-
International Visitors above 12 years of age (includes complimentary audio guide) (That's us)Rs. 300/-
International Students bearing school / college identity cardRs. 20/-
International Child Visitors between 5 to 12 years of age Rs. 05/
Group concession available Rs. 30/-

 

Thursday, 6 September 2012

Best Exotic Marigold Seller

Since the day I arrived in Mumbai,  I have been fascinated by the marigold garlands that you see absolutely everywhere.  The bright colours - white, yellow and orange are so cheery that I have bought a few from our local market to hang in the apartment. It was only when I recently visited a Hindu temple, that I came to realise that these marigold adornments are not really designed for sprucing up one's home.  In fact, marigolds have a huge spiritual significance - hence why they are found hanging in religious places, from doorways, on the fronts of all modes of transport, outside restaurants, at Hindu weddings etc etc.


My local marigold garland seller - he spends all day stitching them together in the hope of selling them
before they are wilted by heat and humidity (not always successful).


The English name 'marigold' (also known as Calendula) is derived from the Christian name for the flower being "Mary's Gold".  As with many things in India (including chilli!), the plant was introduced by Portuguese colonists. 

Flower garlands are a staple in Indian traditions as they are considered so pure. People offer them as a sign of honour and respect. They also offer them to honour Indian gods and goddesses (particularly Laxmi and Ganesh) and to welcome visitors. Although I have also seen them at most Christian altars in and around Bandra.  Traditional flower garlands are made of orange and yellow marigold flowers together with scented white jasmines - with the flowers being weaved into a garland using thread and then knotting in the ends.  The garlands that I buy, which are about two foot long when extended cost about 40 or 50 rupees (£0.50). 


How I like to use marigold garlands in our home - hanging them off the hall stand and placing them in a large silver bowl.
(Punched silver bowl from Good Earth, hall stand from Serendipity in Bandra, tea lights from Pure Living)

In Indian life, colours always hold an especial importance which makes the displaying of marigolds even more significant.   White is widely accepted as the color of peace and purity. Yellow symbolizes sanctity.  Saffron, a soft orange color, is considered an auspicious and sacred color and orange represents courage and sacrifice (hence why it is one of the colours of the Indian flag).  I have to admit, orange was a colour I shunned in the UK - perhaps because it does not suit our wintery grey light.  But I have totally fallen in love with it here in Bombay.  The colour orange is now what makes up all the accents in our sitting room - a perfect hue against the bright Indian sunlight.

In the few months that I have been in India, I have seen many examples of where marigolds are used with some sort of deeper meaning - some of which I have photographed below:

Coconut adorned with a singular orange marigold - the coconut was smashed at the opening of a new site (read here)

Marigolds (some plastic) adorn the 'Handi' at the Dahi Handi Festival (read here)
 
A marigold garland adorns a doorway - welcoming new visitors

I have also been to the flower 'galli' near Mumba Devi Temple in South Mumbai where they make up the garlands from huge baskets of marigold flowers. I love all the different colour/flower combos with each seller having their own signature design.  And the colours are so fresh and so vibrant, you almost want to eat them!
  
Flower Galli near Mumba Devi Temple - making it easy for buyers to snap up a garland offering on the way to worship.




I thought this one was a real stunner!  Made up with white marigolds, jasmines and deep magenta rose petals.

The Artiste himself

Huge baskets of marigold and jasmine heads lining the flower galli

I wish it wasn't so dark in the flower galli - these colour combinations do not look so vibrant as they really are.
 
Back to my Best Exotic Marigold Seller - Pali Market, Bandra

Most of these garland vendors will buy their flowers very (very!) early in the morning from Dadar flower market: Bombay's largest wholesale flower market.  I will update you further when I have visited it to take even more photos of marigolds!
 
 

Wednesday, 5 September 2012

My first visit to an Indian Doctor

Well it finally happened.  I fell sick.  Not, as you may be thinking with a bad stomach following consumption of dodgy street food, but due to an earache.  That's why I've been a bit quiet on the blogging front this week.  In fact, I am tapping this one out from my bed.  Aaaawwww.

I was actually terrified by the prospect of becoming ill in a foreign land.  As it is, I have not been to see a doctor since 2003 in the UK, except for to have my travel vaccinations. And even then, I paid good money at a private clinic for the privilege of having my upper arm tortured. (As you can gather, I have a complete distrust of NHS doctors and am terrified of hospitals).

So, when I started to get a sore throat last week followed by pains in my ear during dinner with friends on Sunday night, I became very nervous.  I had suffered with earache a lot as a child and it is something that has bothered me from time to time during adult life.  I therefore know how painful an earache can be and I also know that the only way to get rid of it is with antibiotics.  Damn it, this would involve a visit to a doctor.

I was right - by Monday morning, I was in agony.  Suffering from total exhaustion brought on by the infection, I was not able to get out of my bed.  By midday, I had sent a pitiful text message to Mr Jules saying "you might have to help me to the doctors".  I would be too scared to go alone. I spent the rest of the day, consuming packets of ibuprofen and trying to drag myself to the kitchen to make tea.  When I am ill, I really know how to make a meal of it.  Thankfully, Mr Jules was home by 5pm to assist his old woman.

In the car, we made it through battering monsoon rain to see Dr Hingorani of Chimbai Road in Bandra (love the drama?).  We entered the waiting room and went up to the reception - which was actually just a small rectangular hole in the wall.  Mr Jules demanded "I need an appointment for my wife right now!" in the manner of "this woman is about to die right now!".  His tone seemed to work - although one of the receptionists said "there is a two hour wait" - the other receptionist took one look at us and said "sit".  There were about four other people waiting to see the doc, one of whom was wearing knee high wellington boots which I immediately coveted and couldn't stop wondering where she had got them from. 

The other patients came in and out of the door next to the hole in the wall reception with such speed that within 15 minutes I was already in front of Dr Hingorani (beat that NHS!). Whilst the doctor was still writing his notes for the last patient (no computers here) I plonked myself down on the chair - which was only about a foot off the floor on well oiled wheels - so I went flying backwards, nearly falling off.  I always know how to make an entrance! The doctor surpressed his laughter.

I gave Dr Hingorani a low down of my symptoms and he told me to get on to the bed.  I hate this bit - the prodding and the poking, the cold or sharp objects, the choking of your arm by the blood pressure machine, the shining lights.  He jabbed me with the stethoscope in about 10 places, back and front whilst I breathed in and out in the manner of a tyre pump, shoved a metal thing in my mouth, and roughly stuck an otoscope into my ear.  This actually made me yelp.  The doctor ignored me. Then he said "let me hear you cough"....at which I tried to summon up my best hacking cough that would not, at the same time, burst my troubled eardrum.

Without saying anything further, I was led back to the desk where the doctor proceeded to write out a two sided prescription.  OH NO I thought!  This must be a lot more serious than I thought!  Typhoid...Tetanus, Tuberculosis perhaps???  "So" I said nervously.."what's wrong with me?". "You have a tonsil infection" he replied.  Tonsil infection....that's all he said.  So I could only surmise that my awful earache was brought on by the tonsil infection, that my blood pressure was normal and that my hacking cough, was not in fact, due to lung cancer. 

He did however, kindly take me through the complex two sided prescription (I do not believe this was copied, so he has no idea what he has given me for future reference). There were five medications prescribed in all...antibiotics for the "tonsil infection", anti-histamines for the cough, cough mixture for the cough, pro-biotics to counter the effect of the antibiotics and some other tablets for the painful hunger pangs I had been experiencing whilst not actually hungry (apparently, caused by acid).  Still no mention of the searing earache. I needed to be grateful I thought to myself - in the UK, I would only get antibiotics if I was lucky.

We went to the pharmacy next door to the clinic to get the medicine - I was convinced that the doctor must be on some sort of commission to be prescribing all this stuff for a mere "tonsil infection". However, Mr Jules tells me this is completely normal procedure in India. Perhaps it's a good tactic...cover all bases to stop you returning for a second innings.

It's been nearly 48 hours since my visit to Dr Hingorani and I am finally starting to feel better. And I don't feel so bad about going to see a doctor now - well an Indian one anyway, I still have a hatred of the UK health service. The whole thing was a lot less painful than I envisaged (except for the jab in the ear with the otoscope which I won't mention).

An array of medicines...covering all bases

I do recommend Dr Hingorani if you favour the quick in and out and to the point method of medical consultation - he did come highly recommended to us.  He is a very nice man too.

Dr N R Hingorani MBBS
Clinic at 1 Beach View
Chimbai Road
Bandra West
Mumbai 400 050
Tel: +91 98-19-269861
Tel: +91 98-19-209861

Open: Weekdays, 10am to 2pm / 3.30pm to 7pm
Saturday, 10am to 3pm

As there is no NHS in India, my trip to the doctor cost 400 rupees (£5/$8). The medication cost was 850 rupees (£10/$15)...and that is a lot of medication!

Post Script:  Five days later and my ear ache has not disappeared and at times seems to feel worse.  I called up 'Mera Doctor' which is a really great call back phone service that was recommended to me.  I am now the proud holder of a text prescription for three new different medications!  That will make 8 in total!

Mera Doctor Tel: 022 61336144 (www.meradoctor.co)

Friday, 31 August 2012

Camelot - Colonial Antique Furniture

I am actually loathe to give details of this fabulous retail find....but it would be selfish not to.



I have spent weeks hunting high and low for a teak coffee table. Sick of the black laminate and glass atrocity provided by our landlord, I have looked everywhere. I've been to Oshiwara antiques market in Jogeshwari and I've been to Chor Bazaar in search of a bargain. We have been to Phillips Antiques, The Raj Company, and I have also tried Anemone in Raghuvanshi Mills, Colonial Collections in Fort and The Great Eastern Home (a veritable behemoth of antique furniture).  The latter are all the well known places to find antiques and reproduction colonial furniture in Mumbai but all, in my mind, charge ridiculously high prices.  So alas, we have had no luck finding exactly what we wanted.  Then I thought about doing what most Mumbaikars probably do in this situation - have something made. Carpentry is so cheap and lots of people get bespoke stuff done all the time.  However I was lacking a good recommendation and I knew that trying to communicate exactly what I wanted (and to my exacting standards!) to an Indian tradesman would end up being a farce.  So I gave up on that idea too.

Following a notice in my favourite online magazine Mumbai Boss that "Camelot is hosting a sale with up to 30 per cent off on colonial and Art Deco furniture in teak, rosewood and mahogany", I thought that my shallow life was about to be changed .  I literally started salivating at the mouth. What is this shop Camelot? Would I find that elusive coffee table?  Would it be a bargain? Oh how delighted Mr Jules would be!

Unable to go on the first day of the sale (due to my very important humanitarian work/day job), we popped down the following Saturday morning to the Camelot shop in Kemps Corner.  127 Kemps corner (to be exact) is a colonial house down a longish drive off the heaving main road.  Immediately I was taken - colonial antiques in a colonial setting!  (Amy, I hope you are reading this, you would have been beside yourself!).

The beautiful entrance to Camelot

Getting there a day after the sale had begun was a BIG mistake.  Virtually everything was sold out!  Even my dream coffee table (if there is such a thing as a dream coffee table) had been sold and I was devastated!  Oh well I thought to myself.... it just meant that I would have to look around and pick something else out to 'tide me over'.


Perhaps not to your taste, but this was the coffee table I coveted

The Camelot showroom consists of two large rooms and a terrace area displaying conservatory furniture.  There is a good range of high quality art-deco and colonial chair sets, campaign chests, dining sets, sofas, side tables, wardrobes, chests, desks, mirrors and art.  And much more.  It all looks hand-picked - I couldn't see anything poor quality and I don't think much was reproduction (which is the problem when you go antiques hunting in Chor Bazaar or Oshiwara).  Even better, the owners do not seek to rip you off like most other antique places.  The prices were very reasonable and even more reasonable during the sale. 


Indo-Portuguese rosewood dining set.  I would have bought this had it not been 'sold'

I told the lady that I was very upset that the coffee table had been sold but she told me not to worry as she would let me know as soon as a similar one came in.  Watch this space!!

In the meantime, and because I can't resist a sale, Mr Jules bought a teak art deco side table to go next to the sofa and for himself, a lovely teak medicine chest.  Well he thinks it's for him, but it so happens that it perfectly houses my lovely new collection of Chimanlal stationery....

UPDATE 15.03.13
Please see my latest blog on Moorthy's - a paradise for colonial antique furniture.  Find the blog here.

New teak medicine chest on top of new art deco side table.  The teak chest was 3,000 rupees in the sale (£35/$52)


Perfect for my new collection of beautiful Chimanlals stationery!

Side table.  Lamp from Pure Living, Phoenix Market City (Bandra Kurla).
"Bombay Art Deco" book by Navin Ramani from Crossword, Kemps Corner
More images of Camelot (with thanks to the Manager):


Art deco rocking chairs, chests and side tables in a terrace setting

The obligatory Ganesh

Colonial sofa set on the balcony

A good selection of affordable, art deco colonial furniture.  Stuff I love!

Camelot
Colonial & Antique Furniture
127 Kemps Corner
Next to Om Chambers
Mumbai
Tel: 91 (22) 2364 4594
Email Camelot127@gmail.com

Chimanlals
(Beautiful hand crafted stationery)
Wallace Street,
Fort, Mumbai 400 001.
Close to New Excelsior Cinema

Update 31/03/13 - Please read my (almost) complete guide to buying colonial antique furniture in Mumbai here: http://bombayjules.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/where-to-buy-colonial-antique-furniture.html 

Update 05/04/2014 - Please read my post about returning to Camelot for its April 2014 sale.