The Big Door (Mumbai) : Interiors & Jewellery

Some very large green doors have appeared on Dr Ambedkar Road (next to Pizza Metro).  And when I say big, I mean BIG!  Passing by yesterday and seeing that the sign to the left of the doors said 'Heritage, Jewels, Collectibles'...I was inevitably drawn in.  

Before entering the store, you know something special must lie behind that spectacular entrance.  And sure enough - I was not to be disappointed. As you go through, you are immediately greeted by a giant marble lion to the left - and to the right: an incredible display of sparkly jewellery. Of course, being a woman, I was attracted to the gleaming jewels like a magnetised magpie. Wow! you've never seen anything like it!  Gold chokers encrusted with cut and uncut diamonds, emeralds, rubies and tourmalines; diamond bracelets, bejewelled pendants, rings and ear-rings.  But not the usual stuff of Indian wedding dreams that you see on Waterfield Road - this is pure, handcrafted artistry from Jaipur, some heavy set and some fine, but each piece with an attention to detail that demands closer inspection.  

This piece blew me away - uncut diamonds and a huge emerald.
Price on application (but worth asking!)

I am soon introduced to Sunita Gupta who is one half of the brains behind the store.  The other half is her husband Vivek - as yet unseen.  Sunita - highly sophisticated in a beautifully embroidered, floaty red kurta tells me that she designed all the jewellery in conjunction with her brother Ravi Ajmera (of Ravi Jewels). Their designs are executed by a team of master craftsmen in Jaipur. You can not help but be awe-struck by the contents of the display cabinets. Sunita also tells me that any piece can be created or adjusted to the client's requirements. As well as the high-end collection, there is a smaller display of what I'd call 'accessible' jewellery (phew!) - mostly in silver but still set with fine stones (price range 5,000-40,000 Rs).  I am already wondering what Mr Jules can get me for Christmas.

Cases full of silver gem-set silver jewellery - paradise for a girl

After spending quite some time fawning over the jewellery, I am dying to know what is secreted up those stairs. Vivek Gupta arrives to show me the next level and takes the opportunity to explain some of the thought processes behind the store's creation.

Only a few weeks old, The Big Door's expansive interior took eight months to design, build and perfect.  It looks more like a museum than a store.  Vivek tells me that this is exactly the thinking: that this should be a superior space where traditional crafts and artefacts - mostly from Rajasthan - can be properly showcased. Before you even look at the products themselves, you can see that every attention to detail has been applied to the interior - from the mirrored jali ceilings to the wood-panelled walls to the atmospheric lighting.  A place to relax whilst you browse.

Museum-like space upstairs

Vivek and I discuss how we find it incredible that some people choose to buy copies of Indian crafts imported cheaply from China, or those who have their houses fitted out with the latest Italian designs (also copies), when his country produces such a massive wealth of incredible handmade furniture and textiles. I am impressed by his passion and agree that showcasing these artefacts sensitively is what Mumbai needs.  I hate those 'Cottage Industry' emporiums that churn out wooden elephants, sandalwood incense sticks and overpriced pashminas to the masses. 

You certainly will not find any pashminas here - or cushion covers.  Upstairs, the focus is on solid marble, silver or wood accessories; giant pieces of furniture; antiques and paintings.  The collection is eclectic yet binds beautifully together in this fantastic, subtly lit space.  A lot of the pieces are in fact recent, faithful reproductions utilising traditional skills - but in amongst the items on display, you will also find the odd two hundred year old artefact. Which makes the hunt even more exciting.  

I am shown into the bathroom, where there is a gorgeous round copper sink on display and a shallow cupboard that has been converted into a long mirror.  Everything but the toilet is for sale. 

This piece of furniture is priced at 36,000 Rs - surprisingly reasonable!

And what surprised me the most is the pricing!  To be honest, I was a bit embarrassed to ask the prices at first, but I needn't have been. The pieces are labelled but the fixed price is in code - just ask how it works and you won't have to ask again. A large green painted sidepiece is priced at only 36,000 Rs (£360/$550); the bone inlaid dressing table is 46,000 (£460/$700);  the shiny metal birds are only 3,750 Rs (£38/$57); and a gorgeous mother-of-pearl tray is 5,500 Rs upwards (£55/$83).  I am pleased that the pricing is accessible and that there is something for everyone - whether it be big or small.  Some of these items will definitely be recommended in my Mumbai Christmas Shopping Guide 2013!

The Big Door is a family run business - with wife Sunita running the jewellery side and Vivek taking care of the rest. Other members of the family produce and supply the products from Jaipur. I meet another family member Arpit Mantri who is handling the marketing and PR.  He tells me the store is already being featured in Elle Decor and they have had a lot of interested from people walking past and being attracted through those Big Doors.

A bit like me then!

Here are the images - I have especially taken photos of some of the smaller items that would make lovely gifts.

Bone inlaid console or writing table - 46,000 Rs. The pair of solid marble planters below is priced at 36,000 Rs

I love this marble diya with elephant detailing - 28,000 Rs for a pair.

Gorgeous silver elephants parading on a coffee table.

You will find a lot of this heavy silver (on teak) furniture in the store -
suitable for any Bollywood star (or David & Victoria Beckham!).  Look closely at the detailing - fantastic.

You will find these wonderful teak pillars that have been converted into huge candlesticks.
A metal bird (3,750 Rs) perches on this one.

I definitely need some doors suitable for these amazing door handles! (4,400 to 8,000 Rs)

This artefact is over 200 years old.

These old roti tins can be used as jewellery boxes.  The metal work is beautiful.

Each of these amazing lily pads are carved out of a single piece of marble.  Incredible!  Price 25,000 Rs each.

One of a pair of antique wall ornaments - 2.75 lakhs.

I want this mirror! 

More of that expansive museum-style interior

Mother of pearl trays available for 5,500 Rs upwards.  My photo doesn't really do this justice.

Cool display!

This Italianate style chandelier is of course, hand crafted in Jaipur.  Check out that wooden Jali ceiling.

The jewel area on the ground floor.  Approach only if you dare!

The lovely Sunita Gupta

OK, you can start breathing now!

I absolutely adore this rough cut diamond and gold bracelet.....

...and this unusual diamond encrusted bangle. Boys...start getting your chequebooks out!

As you come in you will see a selection of architectural salvage - like these original doors from Jaipur palaces.

This is what immediately greets you as you enter the store! (He doesn't bite)

I told you the doors were big!

The Big Door

M Square

317/3 Dr Ambedkar Road (next to Pizza Metro)

Pali Hill

Khar (West)

Mumbai 4000 042

Golden Triangle Part 4 : How Not to Buy a Rug!

When our driver stopped the car at a rugseller's shop on the dusty road between Jaipur and Agra, I immediately began to get that sinking feeling.  Having already fought off various pashmina and rug vendors in the last few days of our trip, I was really not in the mood for what was coming up.

For anyone reading this who is about to go on a tour of the Golden Triangle (or indeed for those who have been on it)...this is how it pans out :

Your driver/rickshaw driver stops the vehicle and tells you that this is the best place to buy a rug in Jaipur "45% cheaper prices than anywhere else...wery, wery good!"

Because you have kind of developed a nice relationship with whoever is driving you, you kind of feel you don't want to let him down by refusing just a glance at the carpets - so you agree to get out of the vehicle "just to have a look".



A young man sits down at a loom inside the open-fronted shop and proceeds to shows you and your friend/spouse/partner the process of weaving a carpet.  He tells you some background information about the local rural village where a co-operative is government funded to buy materials and looms to make the rugs.  He then tells you about his very old grandmother who still weaves to this day and his grandfather who works in the fields to help support the family.  A proper heartwarming story. Not only are his grandparents also heavily involved in making these carpets, but so are his mother, father, brothers and sisters. This is an amazing and ancient skill that has been passed down through the generations to this young man in front of you. He shows you a carefully prepared photo album of the villager rugweavers.  To you, they all look like Bollywood actors.

Check out the slicky hair

Out of the corner of your eye, you notice a pair of aviator sunglasses hanging up on a mirror on a side wall.  Then you glance at the young man, and you see that he has perfectly slicked backed hair and city-slicker style trousers and shirt.  Not very rural looking you think to yourself.

Then the moment you have been dreading (and when your friend/spouse/partner goes to hide) - when the boy starts flicking out each and every one of the rugs that are contained within the not unreasonably sized room.  With each and every unfurling, comes an increasing pressure to appreciate the handiwork, to size up, to measure, to consider colours.  To get your wallet out.

The aftermath of unfurling of rugs.  My teal rug in the fore-ground

Before you know it you are talking money...having settled on a nice teal and cream number that will match ever so nicely with your new bedspread, recently purchased at Good Earth.  The driver, who has been so quiet yet fixated on the proceedings, starts to hover just a little too near for comfort - within earshot, listening in to all the negotiations.  He must think you were born yesterday!

You 'insult' the rugseller by offering a price deemed too low for the weeks and weeks that his grandmother has put into weaving this particular rug.  You go up a little bit then refuse to budge.  He tries to unfurl some bigger rugs with more intricate workmanship - but you tell him you can't afford them - but he says "no matter, you take rug and send money later!!" "REALLLLY???" you say! (You realise later that this is just a ploy to build trust... perhaps you should have tested him to see what would have happened....)

 An  attempt to sell me a more expensive rug that has been worked on for months by his ancient father.
Yeah, so what!

But in fact and probably thankfully for you, you 'only' have 10,000 rupees in your wallet so there is no way you are going to buy anything more expensive than that.  You are desperate to get out of the shop by this point but because you have a sense of guilt (the poor man is going to have to refold all those carpets!), you hurriedly agree a price for the teal rug that is way over what it is worth.

With smiles all around, the curtains are drawn, you are sat down, the boy's father appears out of nowhere and you and your cohort are offered a cup of chai whilst the driver mysteriously disappears.  Then there is prolonged joviality whilst you are made to sign a visitor's book and discuss where you are from.  (I can't be bothered to tell them that I live in Mumbai, especially after my shameful attempt at haggling).  The driver returns looking pretty happy...after just being paid his cash-in-hand commission.

You really should have known better eh??!!!

The father of the thief who stole my money and then waved goodbye to me.
 I wonder whether he is also wearing Bryl Cream under that turban?

But on the plus side the rug does look lovely in our bedroom!

OK, its a bit creased...and slightly off colour, but I like it!

 

Golden Triangle Part 3 : Jaipur Shopping

Jaipur was a city where La Visitante and I decided not to do too much sight-seeing.  We were there primarily to SHOP!  Well it's Christmas soon right?  And I was sure that all of the folks back home would want a little piece of India for themselves.

Upon arrival in the early evening, the whole of Jaipur's Old City was lit up for Diwali.  Boy this must be one wealthy city to afford all those light bulbs and all that energy - I'd never seen anything like it (although I suppose Blackpool Illuminations does come close).  On every corner stood large groups of policemen, wielding long sticks and looking like they were expecting trouble at any moment.

In Jaipur...even the cows go shopping

We asked the driver to take us straight to our hotel - on over embellished Indian folly known as Umaid Bhawan.  Actually, this was the cheapest hotel on the trip at about £26 per night for the two of us but I thought the standard was not bad for this price. After inspecting the room and dropping our bags off, we went straight back into town in the hope of getting something decent to eat. We chose Handi's - another Lonely Planet recommendation - a cavernous canteen style eatery with a minimal amount of character.  Again, the place was full of Golden Triangle tourists, with few locals.  Unfortunately the food matched the interior, being rather lack lustre.



Hmmm....an interesting pot balancing act on Diwali night at Umaid Bhawan

After dinner, we had rather a scary adventure involving a tuk tuk that took us along some dubious and poorly lit back streets to a pashmina emporium that we did not want to visit. (Apparently "please go to the Pink City" means "I want to buy a new scarf" in Hindi, did you know that?)  After an altercation with the shop owner when we refused to get down off the tuk tuk, we managed to get the driver to take us back to the hotel. This would be one of many times that we would get conned by tuk tuk drivers on the Golden  Triangle - no matter how much experience you have of living in India, I think anyone with white skin will share the same fate.  Perhaps La Visitante is right...I need to learn Hindi (don't watch this space).

The next morning and before commencing our shopping escapade, we did a snippet of sightseeing by visiting Jantar Mantar - an observatory built by Maharaja Jai Singh and completed in 1728.  This was a remarkable place, containing huge masonry and metal instruments including giant sundials to calculate local time, zodiac instruments (I never knew Indians were into horoscopes!) and other more complicated instruments to calculate the 'azimuth of celestial bodies'.  For the first time on our trip we hired a guide to show us around as the instruments quite clearly required in depth explanation!  Then, having completed our cultural exercise for the day, we headed off for the shops (hoorah!).

Jantar Mantar Observatory in Jaipur - a fascinating place

The guide teaching us how to tell the time on this giant sundial.

The Old City of Jaipur is pretty much built on a grid system (like New York but not!) and is therefore relatively well planned and easy to navigate.  We walked the length of Johari Bazar - the centre of jewellery and gems sales (I came away with a beautiful £12 amethyst) - and then turned on to Bapu Bazar and Nehi Bazar, a long street supposedly famed for its textiles. Here we found mostly tourist tat (or stuff for people who don't know how to shop). Turning right again on to Kishan Pol Bazar (making the third side of a rectangle) I was expecting to see Jaipur's famous blue pottery and ironwork.  I saw none whatsoever and started to question our guide book.





A selection of semi precious stones in the trustworthy shop where I bought my £12 two carat amethyst.
Gopal Prasad & Co, Specialist in Beads and Colour Stones
2233, Haldiyon Ka Rasta, Johari Bazaar, Jaipur

So far we had been pretty unsuccessful in our hunt for quality textiles and had bought nothing between us that morning.  Disgusted, we headed off to lunch, to Niros - just outside of the city walls on Mirza Ismail (MI) Road.  Guess what...another Lonely Planet recommendation and yet another disappointing experience (you would have thought we'd learnt our lesson by now?)  From our experience, Niros served entirely forgettable and bland Indian food to only white faces. And not Italian as the name may have suggested!

Niro's dining room - as reflected in the ceiling mirror

After a disappointing morning's shopping and a mouthful of bland food, we came away from Niro's feeling rather dejected. However, as it turns out it, heading in that direction for lunch had been fortuitous decision - as it was on Mirza Ismail Road where we ended up finding some great shopping.  First of all Himalaya - which La Visitante had been keen to track down for its organic and natural beauty products - where we made some vital face and hair cleansing products, and then a bit further along, I found an old man's shoe shop which so happened to be selling beautiful, hand embroidered Mojari slippers.  I bought a pair for myself (of course!) and a pair for a friend back home.  Next door to this, we found a fabulous bangle shop stacked from head to toe with a rainbow of 'arm candy'.  We spent probably an hour sat on low stools going through all the boxes and making our (rather garish) selections. 



Hand embroidered Mojari slippers
Charmica Leather Shop, MI Road, Jaipur



The aftermath in the bangle shop after we'd been through all the boxes! (MI Road, Jaipur)

Feeling a little better after an hour's retail therapy, we took a tuk tuk back into the Old City in the hope of finally tracking down some decent cloth, preferably of the block-printed variety that Jaipur is so famous for (god knows what we thought we were going to do with it once we got it!).  We hunted high and low and it was only when a creepy guy started following us (he probably wanted to sell us a pashmina) that we ducked into a saree shop to escape him.  Again, another fortuitous decision because after being led upstairs, we discovered that the shop retailed the most beautiful selection of hand embroidered dupattas, silk sarees, pashminas (which we didn't want, obviously) and cloth. After a length period of umming and aaahing, we both selected a hand embroidered dupatta and some silk fabric for another friend back home.  By the time we went back out on to the street, the creepy guy had gone. Phew.

Gorgeous silk fabrics in the saree shop.
Handloom Emporium, 17, Nehru Bazar, Jaipur

As dusk approached, there were still a few items on the shopping list that we had not been able to uncover such as the aforementioned Jaipur blue pottery and cotton fabric.  We were about to go back to the hotel when out of the very corner of my eye, I spotted a stack of block printed cloth through a glass door.  Excited, I dragged La Visitante into the shop to see if we could not fill up some of the gaps in our shopping bags.  Success! This place turned out to be the best quality fabric retailer we had come across - the shop owner later told us that in fact, he supplies to FabIndia amongst others. 



Our fabrics being measured out.
Madho Behari Mohan Behari
Shop No 115, Khanda Purohit Ji Ka, Manak Chowk, Jaipur

We found beautiful medium weight plain cottons and bought three lots of each for 120 to 180 Rs per metre (average £2 pm) - enough to have several dresses made (watch this space!) - and with our last purchases made, returned highly sated back to the Umaid Bhawan hotel.

Some other images of the day:



Hawa Mahal "Palace of the Winds" - built so that the Maharaja's ladeeez could all get a good view of the street below during processions etc....without being seen.

Another interesting balancing act.