Bandra Scenes Photographed by a Dharavi Kid

Yesterday, we went along to an exhibition by Bombay Underground - showcasing art and photography produced by the children of Dharavi ("Asia's biggest slum").  This is being held at the False Ceiling Gallery in Pali Naka very close by to where we live.  Another initiative of Reality Gives, the event aims to dispel the negative attitudes many people have towards Dharavi by showing those outside, an intimate, first person perspective of life inside the slum.  

There are about 50 children in the Bombay Underground art and photography club, who are given tuition by a professional photographer and volunteers once a week (or every day during the summer holidays).  The exhibition is the culmination of the best work they have achieved - which can also be bought for only 1,000 Rs a piece.  

Yesterday, the kids themselves were brought to the the False Ceiling Gallery in Bandra to see their work being displayed. They must have been so proud to see their art hung up in such a professional environment! Afterwards, a few of us had the privilege of taking small groups of the children around our neighbourhood, so that they could use what they have learnt to take photographs.   Mr Jules and I went with a member of Reality Gives staff (we needed a 'responsible adult'!), two girls aged 9 and an older boy to whom I lent our Canon Powershot camera (not quite a DSLR but a little more complex than his usual point-and-shoot).

We went off down a side street into Pali Village and I let the boy snap away, guiding him on some good shots to take and how to frame them (the most I could do as a mere amateur).  I also encouraged him to take photos of some of the characters around the neighbourhood - ensuring that he asked their permission politely first but not to be shy to ask.  After all, I have become somewhat of an expert at this myself!  The other two little girls followed suit although they were rather more raucous and trying to outdo/copy each other on the camera they were sharing. Very amusing!

It was really a lovely experience for Mr Jules and I to take these children around an area they had never been to before and to see their perspective on all that was new and colourful.  It even made me open my eyes to the Pali neighbourhood and notice things I'd never noticed before. When we came back, I had a look through the boys pictures and I was amazed by what I saw - this kid really has a natural talent which I hope will develop into a career for him one day.  

Here is a selection of his photos (I have cropped and enhanced only one or two of them):

Pali bungalow dweller - through the bars of her door.

I pointed out this photo opportunity to the boy and then left him to it - I love the result!

I tried to explain to the (Hindu) children who Jesus was...I gave up in the end!

Shot of a milk delivery - he asked permission to come close in.

Bemused to say the least!

Close up of an advertising hoarding outside an opticians.

Local beggar - he didn't have to pay her for this shot thankfully!

The lighting is perfect at 5pm in the afternoon

I asked this guy if it was OK for the boy to take his photo - but I don't think he was too impressed!

The two little girls were of course attracted to this jewellery stall on Pali market.  Our boy took this great close up of these bracelets - love the shadows.

The boy took a photo of one of the girls concentrating on her next shot (more bemused onlookers in the background)

One of my favourite shots - I slightly cropped it but I was amazed that he observed the lady and framed the shot from across the road.

I asked the boy to appreciate the colours of this old door.  Lovely pic!

Our talented group!

The Dharavi Art Room Exhibition is on until 11th May at the False Ceiling Gallery, Pali Naka (a few doors up from Pali Village Cafe.  You can buy prints of photos for 1,000 Rs and art for 300 Rs (Images below)

PERSONAL MESSAGE TO MY READERS!

DO YOU HAVE A CAMERA THAT YOU NO LONGER USE? 
PLEASE DONATE IT TO REALITY GIVES VIA BOMBAYJULES!

Perhaps you have recently upgraded from your point-and-shoot or you took up the hobby and didn't continue it.  If so, please contact me on bombayjules@gmail.com and I will arrange to collect any disused cameras from you.  These talented and enthusiastic children are currently sharing one camera between four or five and I would love to help them out by finding more for the group.  This message goes out to everyone in the UK or Mumbai!!

Cricket Match with the Dharavi Boys

One of my favourite NGOs in Mumbai is Reality Gives. Reality Gives (and its sister NGO Reality Tours and Travel) operate various programmes in Asia's biggest slum - Dharavi - to vastly improve the lives of underprivileged communities.  (I have written about their amazing Dharavi slum tour here).

In 2009, a programme was devised - Project Front Foot - to collect cast-off, out-grown and second-hand cricket kit and equipment in the UK, and then transport it to Mumbai where it could be used at cricket coaching clinics for slum children.  The coaching of around 50 Dharavi kids between the ages of 11 and 18 now takes place on three mornings a week at a local gymkhana - by qualified local coaches and assistant coaches raised in Dharavi.

Today, Reality Gives organised a cricket match for Expats v Dharavi Boys from the Front Foot programme for a little bit of fun (and to raise a little bit more awareness).  I asked Mr Jules if he would be happy to play for the Expats....despite the fact he hasn't played cricket for over 20 years!  Of course he said yes. 

We got up early this Sunday morning in order to get to Shivaji Park in Matunga for 7.30am.  When we arrived, I was amazed by the hive of activity that was already taking place at the ground. Hundreds of cricket teams were playing close together in this massive, makeshift space - each one trying not to encroach on the patch of the next but inevitably crossing over each other.

A boy from Dharavi looks on

Instead of hard cricket balls, weighted tennis balls are used - so as not to break the noses of players and passersby. With green and open space so lacking in this city, it is not surprising that so many people from one of the world's most cricket loving nations are willing to cram together to play in this fashion.

The Dharavi team seemed to be mostly half the age of the expat team and ten times as fit.  But that was not deterring anyone and the Expats got stuck right in.  Actually, the Expats were a little short of players on their side, so Reality Gives very generously loaned two or three men to help them out. I am sure that this assisted them in realising a most surprising overall win.  

I can't really follow the rules of cricket and I have no idea what the end score was but it was a lovely morning and it was great to meet a new bunch of people.  Thanks to Reality Gives for organising such a great time for all of us and thanks to the Dharavi Boys for being such good sports. 

A few photos:

Some of the Dharavi side introduce themselves before the start

The Expat team in a huddle

At stake - The Shivaji Ashes

Dharavi supporters look on tensely

At 'half time' the Expat team are one up and the Dharavi Boys are looking distinctly nervous....

Above and below - some great facial expressions from the bowlers!

Above and below - this Dharavi kid was an absolute pocket rocket and a brilliant bowler - one to watch!
(the ball is upper middle of the picture)

It got very dusty out there

Elation as the Dharavi side win the second innings

Another fast Dharavi bowl coming in from the far right

There was a tie breaker to decide the winner - unbelievably the Expats scraped through.
Shaking hands at the end.

The Shivaji Ashes are handed to an Expat Team member. 

Mumbai by Night

Last Thursday night,  we went on a tour of the city by night.  We did this with the marvellous Reality Tours & Travel, a charitable organisation that reinvests 80% of its post-tax profits back into marginalised communities. (Read my post about visiting Dharavi, also with Reality Tours here).

New York may be the city that never sleeps but Mumbai is the definitely the city that never stops. It really comes alive after dark.  As night falls, families come out to take in the milder evening air, dogs roam the streets and huge fruit bats start to fill the sky.  The dark veil hides the hideous aspects of the city and as the lights begin to glow, prayers are said and the smells of street food fills the air.

We visited six landmarks on the tour plus a Jain temple: Chowpatty Beach, Banganga Tank, Kamala Nehru Park (the hanging gardens of Malabar Hill) and Victoria Terminus Station. We also visited Kamathipura, the red light district where photos were not allowed. Kamathipura is in fact the largest red light district in the world with 8,000 sex workers - at one time this figure was 60,000!  For me, to see the sad, red-lipsticked and drugged up faces of the women lining the street was incredibly sad. We drove from one end of the street to other without stopping, it is a very dangerous area, especially for men and so you should not go there unless you are with a someone who knows what they are doing.

Here are a selection of pictures of the other places on the tour (I had a malfunction with the night time settings on my camera so apologies for the quality!)

Chowpatty Beach - one of the many hawkers selling useless items

Couples canoodle, families play, and singed corn-on-the-cob is sold

What I was trying to capture here, but not very well is the absolute filth coming up the beach. This made us want to cry - it could be such a beautiful place to come if only they would clear up the mess! Look closely to the left hand side of the photo, where the water comes in. And there are people standing in this. You are advised NOT to go in the water due to the raw sewage being pumped from the city. Gross.

Is it a Las Vegas hotel or casino?  No it's a muslim hospital!  This is a view of Saifee hospital off Marine Drive from Chowpatty Beach, built by/for Muslim citizens.

A busy junction.

These are the ducks that come out to line Banganga Tank at night.  The water from this famous tank, originally built in 1127 and surrounded by Hindu temples, is believed to have special healing powers. Although you won't catch me putting my foot in there, as I am sure it has better 'infecting' powers these days!  I need to come back and visit this place during the day. 

A group of Hindus praying and singing by the side of the tank (in the centre of the picture)

I thought this script would be translated into something deep and meaningful but all it says is "DO NOT SWIM IN THE WATER".  Apparently a child recently tragically drowned in the tank.

I have noticed this is a common evening past-time - having a haircut and shave

A view of Marine Drive (otherwise known as the "Queen's Necklace" - you can see why) and the Arabian Sea from Kamala Nehru Park.  See how Saifee Hospital stands out above all.



Our trusty, knowledgeable and sometimes cheeky guides.

Victoria Terminus, a World Heritage Site - now known as Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus - is Bombay's great railway station (a stunning building that is British designed and built of course!).  Photo credit to Coceng as I forgot to take a picture of the outside of the station - I was actually busy trying to avoid a homeless woman who decided to pee in my vicinity.

The station was one of the sites of the November 2008 terrorist attacks where 60 people were killed.  I wasn't really supposed to take photos as apparently the terrorist who scoped the station, took photos posing as a tourist.

Inside the station - its 9.20pm and thousands of people are still leaving work to get home - some of them may still have upwards of 2.5 hr journeys ahead of them.

These platforms are where the closing scenes of Slumdog Millionaire were filmed - at 3am in the morning when the station is finally devoid of people.

Find details of Reality Tours and Travel and their tour options here: http://www.realitytoursandtravel.com/

The tour cost a very reasonable 850 rupees/£10/$15 each (including a soft drink) and lasted from 7pm to 9.30pm.  The three of us on the tour were transported from site to site by car/people carrier and separate driver.