Scenes from The Golden Temple, Amritsar

If there is one place that can knock you down with a feather like the Taj Mahal can..it's the Golden Temple in Amritsar. Wow, what an amazing place.

Last weekend, Mr Jules and I had the very great pleasure of visiting Amritsar and the Temple with our great friends Mr & Mrs MaximumCityMadam.  We took the two hour direct Spicejet flight to Amritsar (in the Punjab) and then hired a car for the duration of our stay which dropped us off at our hotel - the Hyatt.  I won't say too much about the Hyatt other than we had a great stay there - elegant rooms and dining areas, efficient service, great food - no problems whatsoever.  It was about 6,200 Rs per night plus taxes (£62/$90) which was not bad at all for such a good standard.  On this occasion, we decided not to stay in a 'character-stroke-heritage' hotel.

We made two visits to the Golden Temple - one at sundown and one at sunrise the next morning.  There are ceremonies at 4am and 10pm which is what most of the visitors to the Temple come for - but we decided that a) we would rather consume alcohol at 10pm and b) we would rather not have to get up at 3am because of alcohol.  And besides, there was a video of the 4am and 10pm ceremonies on the hotel TV which was good enough for us!  

The Golden Temple - properly known as Harmandir Sahib - is the most famous of all Sikh Gurdwaras (meaning "Gateway to the Guru").  It was built by the Fifth Sikh Guru, Guru Arjun, in the 16th century. The doors that are on each of the four sides symbolise the openness of Sikhs towards those of any creed, colour or walk of life.  I have a lot of respect for that particular approach to religion!

The gold covering was installed by the Maharaja Ranjit Singh in the early nineteenth century - thus giving it its English name. The Gurdwara/Temple is surrounded by a large lake or holy tank called the Sarovar. This consists of Amrit - being 'holy water' or 'immortal nectar'. Hence how the city got its name.

To get into the temple complex, we had to take our shoes off and hand them in at one of numerous counters (in exchange for a numbered token). We then washed/shook our feet in a shallow pool of water before entering.  We also had to cover our heads (us ladies in dupattas/pashminas whilst the men donned bright orange 10 Rs bandanas, available to buy anywhere outside the complex).  As you step past the foot-bath and walk through the archway, you glimpse the electric-golden roof of the temple for the first time. It is a moment I shall never forget, along with seeing the Taj Mahal for the first time. 

Over 100,000 people visit the Golden Temple every day to worship and hear chants read from the Guru Granth Sahib (the holiest text of Sikhism) which is always present inside the Gurdwara.  But it never feels overcrowded or rowdy....just incredibly peaceful and spiritual.  The 24 hour chanting which is amplified on Bose speakers throughout the temple complex can be heard from miles away.  

A wider view of the temple complex  and the Sarovar.  Just out of shot to the left are Sikh men partially undressing behind a screen so that they can take a dip in the tank.

Many of the visitors - especially those from rural parts who had come to pay their respects - had never seen fair-skinned westerners before.  So we were followed around by men filming us on their mobile phones and there were many requests for group photos with us.  But it was all very friendly and pleasant.  The Punjabis are the most incredibly welcoming and friendly people I have met in India.

Filming us foreigners

At the end of our evening visit, we were treated to a fireworks display to celebrate the Fifth Guru's birthday! Not only that, but the air was full of static and we saw glimpses of lightning and heard claps of thunder in the background.  Quite a rare spectacle all in all!

Lightning, thunder and fireworks to celebrate the Fifth Guru's birthday
completes our experience of the Golden Temple.

Here are some pics of the amazing Golden Temple and its visitors....

Deep in contemplation

Glorious gold (real gold!)

Just catching a few zeds .zzzzzz

The Golden Temple - a symbol of 'human brotherhood'

Reflections in the water at sun down (stormy grey sky beckons)

Deep reverence for the Sikh faith.

A few of the many volunteers who help prepare (the free-of-charge) food for visitors.  

Stunning colours

Stormy weather

A long queue to get into the temple itself in temperatures of around 40 degrees.

The stunning chandelier and gold ceiling that adorns the entrance to the causeway.  You can't take photos whilst inside the temple. Inside are gurus sat on cushions chanting from sacred books, surrounded by devotees.

One of the four gates

In the queue are folk of all ages, all with their heads covered.

Once inside the temple, you can go up on to the roof.  These are the gold urns that line the terrace.

Very cool!

Close-up of that queue.  We were lucky as we only had to line up for 15 minutes.
Most people can expect to wait 3-4 hours.  

Very glitzy lighting at night.  We thought this may have spoiled the effect? 

Very interesting face and very interesting uniform...not sure what it is

Lovely Sikh family line up for a photo

This little boy has his turban re-wrapped by dad after taking a dip in the Sarovar

Pastel green is sooooo this season!

A team of volunteers help to keep the place spotlessly clean.

Sunrise begins to appear through the clouds

More of the volunteers who cook up offering to take into the temple.

Come back another time for a post about the Wagah Border Ceremony!

The Blackbuck Lodge - Velavadar

I was so blown away by the accommodation we stayed in at Velavadar, that I thought it deserved a post all of its own....

On our trip to Velavadar National Park, we were being accompanied by friends who were keen for a break from Mumbai - so upon landing at Bhavnagar airport (a mere 40 minute flight from the big smog), I was nervous about what lay ahead. It's always a bit like that when you recommend something to others, especially if you have not been there first yourself.

The drive from the airport to our accommodation was dusty, arid and frankly uninspiring - with a monotonous flat landscape, little greenery and ugly industrial vistas. Not only that, but the straight road to Velavadar - although not particularly busy - was dotted with accidents and turned-over vehicles. With a lack of seat-belts in our car and our luggage strapped precariously to the roof, I was not feeling particularly at ease.  I wondered what our friends were thinking.

But that was all to change as soon as we entered through the gates of The Blackbuck Lodge, one hour later.

WOW.

View of the pond from the reception verandah.  So peaceful and calming. The resort is spread around one small lake and two watering holes to the rear- making it easy to see wildlife which is attracted to the water.

Alighting from the car, we were led into a reception area lined with coffee table books and past editions of Vogue and comfy sofas upon which to read them.  We checked in without issue and drank our refreshing welcome drinks on the verandah overlooking the pond.  Everything was so beautiful and so peaceful that any worries I'd had, immediately disappeared. 

After this, our luggage having been taken ahead, we were accompanied up a winding path, past the restaurant building to our accommodation - one of 14 independent cottages nestling in grassy parkland. I couldn't believe my eyes as I stepped over the threshold into our cottage - every possible comfort had been taken care of - from the plump cushions on the bed and window seat, the large satellite TV, the marble floors adorned with rugs, the pencil drawings on the stone walls and the beautiful teak furniture - all giving the impression of a luxurious African safari lodge.  Upon speaking to the owner later, he confirmed that he had indeed taken inspiration from his wildlife travels in Africa.

African safari lodge inspired rooms. I've never slept so well!

The back door of the cottage led straight on to our very own terrace with cushioned teak chairs from which we could survey our own, slightly dried-out watering hole.  You could just sit there all day, waiting for blackbuck, nilgai and birdlife to turn up for a drink.  Which is what we did do a lot of the time!

The huge bathroom was something else - especially the marble lined bath the size of a swimming pool and two rainwater showers.  One inside and one outside!  All the finishes were perfect - no exposed wires, no mouldy walls, no dodgy smells.  The place was spotless and five-star.

Insane marble bath

Although Gujurat is a dry state, The Blackbuck Lodge has a permit to sell alcohol. It's expensive but it's there (and so nice to have a beer after a day of safari-ing).  On our second evening, they had prepared a bar for us in a secluded area near the rear waterhole - with candles hanging off the trees, classical Guju music, a brazier and just the stars for company.  Yes you could see the whole sky lit up with twinkling stars! Such a treat after being in a light-polluted city for so long.

The food choices were a bit limited (after all, there are only 14 rooms at the resort and you can't just walk in off the street), but it was beautifully prepared.  I loved every mouthful.  Each buffet lunch and dinner there were two veg choices (one dry, one in sauce), rice, dhal, and a meat dish for non-vedgers and breads. Both evenings we started off with soup and an appetiser and finish with dessert - such as cardamon scented rice pudding or the ubiquitous Gulab Jamon. Every meal time, the five of us sat indoors at a table laid with crisp white linen but you could also eat or drink at at one of the romantic, canopied tables on the terrace.

At breakfast, I was delighted that there was a) Marmite to have on my toast b) a Lavazza coffee machine and c) eggs made to order.  And there was always a cup of chai waiting when we returned from our safaris.  A pleasing attention to detail - which can be so often lacking in Indian hotels (I am sorry to say) - was to be found in everything at The Blackbuck Lodge.

Buffet in the dining area - service was really excellent

I really do recommend this place as a fantastic getaway from Mumbai - as I mentioned in my previous post, the flight is less than one hour from Mumbai and the drive to the resort a further one hour.  Even if you decide not to take a jeep safari into the park, you can while away hours sitting on your verandah with a book, waiting to see what wildlife will pitch up right in front of you.  Go with friends - as we did, and your evenings will be filled with laughter and stories.  We all came away feeling very relaxed at the end of our stay and ready to face the onslaught that is Mumbai.

And never before have I stayed anywhere in India where they've 'just got it right'.  I have to say very well done indeed to Micky Desai - this place is literally an oasis of good-taste.

More pics of course....

Everything in the cottage was so tasteful

Marble dispensers contain soap, shampoo etc and a mosquito spray is provided.
There are no plastic bags allowed on site - so the bin even contains a brown paper bag.

The outside shower!

The inside shower!

View through back door - leads straight on to parkland

Everything is branded with the Blackbuck logo - even the tea and coffee facilities.

Two comfy chairs on the verandah from which to do your birdwatching

One of the canopied dining tables outside the dining room - takes the heat of the midday sun off you.

Tented sun loungers by the watering hole.

Reception area has sofas and reading matter to suit every taste - including the latest editions of Vogue and GQ magazines.

The dining room.

View of parkland from the verandah of our cottage

Our friends' cottage next door - plenty of privacy and space in between the cottages.

The verandah overlooking the watering hole by reception

The lake at twilight

The owner's resident pug, Mogli, goes on safari

Such attention to detail - even the chambermaids carry wicker baskets in which to put their cleaning materials

The resident duck (one of three that is still alive after his brothers were eaten by local wildlife!)

The 'pop up' bar

The only thing missing at the resort (should you want it) is a swimming pool - but good news is that one is being built and should be ready later this year!


The Blackbuck Lodge
Velavadar National Park,
Dist. Bhavnagar, Bhal,
Saurashtra, Gujarat, IndiaLodge:
Tel: 9978979728 / 9978979729 & 9979157058
Email: 
reservations@theblackbucklodge.com
Website:
www.theblackbucklodge.com